A Personal History of Surfing's Golden Years - by Bob Feigel
When Surfwriter.net was launched in February 2002 I was hoping to entertain a few web-surfers and re-establish contact with some of the old crew. Since then, the site has welcomed over five million visitors and not only have I got back in touch with several of my old mates, I've met some exceptional people and made some new friends along the way. So it's all been worth it.
The site has grown over the past nine years and will continue to evolve. I've been adding more of my own work plus some great stories, memories and photos from other contributors - and there's more to come. So thank you for your support and check back from time to time for new additions.
Bob Feigel grew up in Santa Monica and Malibu, California where he learned to mat-surf in front of his mother and step-father's weekend beach house near Big Rock in the late-forties. He started bodysurfing in the early-fifities and boardsurfing in the late-fifties. In the early-sixties he managed the Makaha Skateboard Exhibition team, worked for the legendary Surfguide Magazine and wrote a regular feature called Feigel Fables. He also contributed articles and celebrity interviews to a number of other magazines, worked in radio and television, and was editor of Young American Report.
living in Malibu, on Maui, Hawaii and in Costa Rica, Bob moved to
Zealand in 1974. Since then he's worked as a radio producer, scriptwriter,
screenwriter, feature writer, editor, copywriter, agency creative director and was New Zealand correspondent for
NBC News. His 1989 book of ‘black humor’, The Senior Citizen’s
Survival Guide, enjoyed five print runs and a revised, expanded edition
was re-published in New Zealand, Australia and the UK in 1997. In 2003
there was another NZ-Australia print run and the US edition was re-released
- available online from AMAZON and
Anne and Bob and a few of their books. Taken during a
break in the filming of an interview for MAKAHA - The Story of the Originator: a documentary about Larry Stevenson,
the man who invented the modern skateboard.
He lives with his wife, Anne, on a hill above Matapouri
Bay, on the North Island's northeast coast and
is working on two books: Path of the Healer with Gregor Robinson;
and A Deal With God with Steve Lyon.
Birthday Poem by 'Y'
As someone who was brought up with the ocean as my playground, I've learned that the 'spirit' of surfing expresses itself in many ways - as any dolphin, sea otter, seal or human surfer can tell you. In human terms, it includes board surfing, body surfing, boogie & body boarding, wind & kitesurfing, kayak & canoe surfing, and so on, ad infinitum.
So ... I dedicate this site to the soul, spirit and STOKE of surfing ... past, present and future ...
Bob Feigel - 06 October 2012
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